What’s the difference between these technologies?

Characterizing biomaterials as a single category, while it may be helpful for internal understanding, can lead to confusion when trying to work with multiple material innovators.

Biomaterials are created using many different technologies.

They range from relatively straightforward methods that deploy known chemistries and materials science, through to entirely de-novo processes that may include the design of a living organism using synthetic biology, or even engineering animal tissue in the lab. Therefore, technical complexity and cost are proportional to time to market.

Along with the process, biomaterial technologies use widely varying feedstocks.

Feedstocks vary from abundant, free or cheap sources such as food and agricultural waste, through to first generation feedstocks such as sugar.

The technology complexity, combined with the type and cost of feedstock, explains the broad spectrum of price, time to market and time to scale for biomaterials.

Material Technology Complexity + $ = Time to Market

Understanding technological complexity in biomaterials

There is no ‘cookie-cutter’ shape for a biomaterials company. The vast majority of new biomaterials are quite simple in terms of inputs and processes. These are the ones that mix a waste stream, often from food, agriculture, or industrial processes, with a binder; most frequently in the form of a biobased PU, natural rubber or biopolyol. The core technology requires basic materials science which can then drop into existing infrastructure to scale, such as coated textile roll-to-roll production for an alternative to leather.

In most cases, this does not need a huge team of PhDs, bespoke facilities, or significant capital. It is the shortest route to market e.g. 2-5 years.

Compare this to a biotech company producing a complex protein via fermentation to make a yarn. Here the latest tools of biotechnology are employed to design and engineer a living organism by editing the code of life itself: DNA. In this scenario, it may look like multiple companies in one. Various scientific teams may work in cell engineering, downstream processing, materials science, fiber spinning and yarn production.

Unlike the first example, this will likely require a large team of PhDs, bespoke facilities, and significant capital. It is a longer route to market e.g. 10-20 years.

Methods for making new bio fibers / fabrics:

STEP 1:
Source biomass

Source biomass e.g. farmed or wild algae.

STEP 2:
Extraction & purification

Once harvested the biomass (e.g. algae) may be cured, then an extraction process separates the desired ingredient.

STEP 3:
Dissolve ingredient

The dried ingredient is then dissolved into a ‘dope’ in preparation for spinning.

STEP 4:
Spin fibers

The dope is spun into fibers ready to be turned into yarn.

STEP 5:
Spin yarn

Fibers are spun into yarns in preparation for fabric production.

STEP 6:
Produce fabric

The resulting yarns are then manufactured into fabrics using standard machines and techniques e.g. knitting or weaving.

STEP 7:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials/products produced using this or similar methods.

STEP 1:
Source feedstock

Every living thing needs a form of nutrition; a ‘feedstock’.

Feedstocks for fermentation are often sugar-based from plants (e.g. corn). Some microbes can also feed on waste gases (e.g. from steel mill emissions).

STEP 2:
Engineer organism

Some companies work with naturally occurring microorganisms. Others engineer microbes to produce a proprietary ingredient in the highest amount possible.

STEP 3:
Fermentation

The microorganisms, main feedstock, water and other ingredients are added to fermentation tanks. In a process akin to brewing beer, the cells are kept in optimum conditions, allowed to multiply, and produce the desired ingredient e.g. a protein.

STEP 4:
Extraction & purification

After fermentation the organism is rendered inert. Most cells do not excrete the ingredient they produce. This means the cell must be broken apart so the ingredient can be extracted, purified and dried.

STEP 5:
Dissolve ingredient

The dried ingredient is then dissolved into a ‘dope’ in preparation for spinning.

STEP 6:
Spin fibers

The dope is spun into fibers ready to be turned into yarn.

STEP 7:
Spin yarn

Fibers are spun into yarns in preparation for fabric production.

STEP 8:
Produce fabric

The resulting yarns are then manufactured into fabrics using standard machines and techniques e.g. knitting or weaving.

STEP 9:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials/products produced using this or similar methods.

Methods for making new bio leather alternatives:

STEP 1:
Source biomass

Source biomass e.g. waste from food production or agricultural processes.

STEP 2:
Extraction & purification

Once harvested an extraction process may be used to separate the desired ingredient from the biomass. Either the extracted ingredient or all of the biomass is cured and dried.

STEP 3:
Formulation

The biomass is mixed with other ingredients, predominantly binders and colorants in a liquid formulation.

STEP 4:
Sheet formation

The liquid formulation is formed into a sheet, most often as a coating on a textile backer.

STEP 5:
Finishing

The material is then usually finished and embossed as desired.

STEP 6:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

STEP 1:
Source substrate & feedstock

Feedstocks for organisms like mycelium often include sugar coming from plants (e.g. corn).

In some mycelium processes, these nutrients are added to a substrate such as agricultural waste, e.g. hemp hurd or sawdust.

STEP 2:
Culture organism

An optimum strain of mycelium is cultured allowing for the desired growth and material attributes.

STEP 3:
Inoculation

The substrate is inoculated with the organism and supplied with optimum growth conditions.

STEP 4:
Grow material

In static solid fermentation (referring to the solid substrate) the organism self assembles into a sheet of mycelium above the substrate.

STEP 5:
Harvest sheets

Once a desired thickness and quality is achieved the organism is rendered inert and the sheets are harvested by slicing away from the substrate.

STEP 6:
Post processing

The mycelium sheets are then further processed, often including some form of pressing and ‘tanning’.

STEP 7:
Finishing

Once ‘tanned’, the sheets are then finished and sometimes embossed (depending on required aesthetic).

STEP 8:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

STEP 1:
Source feedstock

Feedstocks for fermentation technologies are often sugar-based from plants (e.g. corn). However, some innovators, such as with bacterial cellulose, are able to use the sugar remaining in waste streams from food or drink production in their fermentation process.

STEP 2:
Culture / engineer organism

The organisms in these types of processes may or may not be engineered.

The desired strain of the organism needs to be cultured.

STEP 3:
Inoculation

The feedstock and other nutrients are added to a liquid media which is inoculated with the organism.

STEP 4:
Grow material

In static liquid fermentation (referring to the liquid substrate) the organism self assembles into a sheet of bacterial cellulose at the air liquid interface.

STEP 5:
Harvest sheets

Once a desired thickness and quality is achieved the organism is rendered inert and the sheets are harvested.

STEP 6:
Post processing

The sheets are then further processed, often including some form of ‘tanning’.

STEP 7:
Finishing

Once ‘tanned’ the sheets are finished and sometimes embossed (depending on required aesthetic).

STEP 8:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

STEP 1:
Source feedstock

Feedstocks for fermentation technologies are often sugar based coming from plants (e.g. corn).

STEP 2:
Culture organism

The desired strain of the organism needs to be cultured.

STEP 3:
Fermentation

The microorganisms, main feedstock, water and other ingredients are added to fermentation tanks and stirred. In this example the organism, mycelium, assembles into small ‘clumps’ during liquid fermentation.

STEP 4:
Formulate material

Once the fermentation cycle is finished the mycelium clumps are separated and formulated with other ingredients.

STEP 5:
Sheet formation

The mycelium formulation is mechanically formed into a sheet and dried.

STEP 6:
Post processing

The sheets are then further processed, often including some form of tanning.

STEP 7:
Finishing

Once ‘tanned’, the sheets are then finished and sometimes embossed (depending on required aesthetic).

STEP 8:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

STEP 1:
Source feedstock / media

Source animal cells either from an animal biopsy or a cell bank.
Develop a nutrient media for cells to grow.

STEP 2:
Multiply cells

Multiply cells in nutrient media.

STEP 3:
Seed cells

Cells may be seeded on a nutrient substrate or a textile scaffold.

STEP 4:
Further growth

Provide optimum growth conditions adding further nutrients if required.

STEP 5:
Harvesting sheets

Once the tissue is matured to the desirable density and thickness sheets may be harvested.

STEP 6:
Post processing

Sheets may be washed of media ready for cross-linking chemistry to stabilize and preserve tissue structure.

STEP 7:
Finishing

Further ‘tanning’ and finishing of tissue may be used to impart specific qualities, performance and aesthetics.

STEP 8:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

Methods for making new bio dyes & finishes:

STEP 1:
Source biomass

Source biomass from waste stream or partner supply.

STEP 2:
Extraction & purification

Grind algae pigment. For carbon black, heat treat to create a blackened ‘char’.

STEP 3:
Formulation

Mix algae pigment with water-based binder.

STEP 4:
Dyeing textile

Add dye to industrial dye vats in standard process.

STEP 5:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

STEP 1:
Source feedstock

Feedstocks for fermentation technologies are often sugar based coming from plants (e.g. corn). Exact feedstock source may depend on best local supply, e.g. in Europe that may be sugar beet.

STEP 2:
Engineer organism

Engineer the microorganism to produce the specific color and intensity required at scale.

STEP 3:
Fermentation

The microorganisms, plus the feedstock, water and other ingredients are added to fermentation tanks. In a process akin to brewing beer the organisms are kept at optimum conditions, allowed to multiply and produce the desired ingredient e.g. a dye.

STEP 4:
Dyeing textile

Textile is added to the fermentation tank and microbes fix the dye into the fibers without the need for traditional mordants.

STEP 5:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

STEP 1:
Source feedstock

Feedstocks for fermentation technologies are often sugar based coming from plants.Exact feedstock source may depend on best local supply, e.g. in North America that may be corn.

STEP 2:
Engineer organism

Engineer the microorganism to produce the specific color and intensity required at scale.

STEP 3:
Fermentation

STEP 4:
Extraction & purification

Once the fermentation is finished the dye is extracted and dried into powder form.

STEP 5:
Create dye liquor

Additional chemistry may be applied to create a dye liquor.

STEP 6:
Dyeing textile / yarn

Dye liquor is added to industrial dye vats in standard process.

STEP 7:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

STEP 1:
Grow mulberry trees

Mulberry trees provide the leaves or feedstock for the silk worm.

STEP 2:
Grow silk cocoons

Silk worms are fed mulberry leaves and spin their cocoons.

STEP 3:
Wash off sericin

Cocoons may be boiled or washed in a salt water bath to remove the sericin (protein) leaving silk fibroin (protein).

STEP 4:
Dissolve fibroin, filter & purify

Silk fibroin maybe further purified using a salt solution.The dissolved fibroin is formulated into a solution ready for finishing.

STEP 5:
Coat textile / leather

The purified silk solution is added to a water bath where the fabric is immersed, absorbing the silk finish. Excess water is removed and the fabric dried in an oven.

STEP 6:
Final Material / Product

Example final materials / products produced using this or similar methods.

Sources coming soon

Sources coming soon

Sources coming soon