Understanding the potential impacts of different technologies

Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs)

A Life cycle assessment, (or analysis), is a multi-step evaluation process to detail the environmental effects of a product throughout its entire life. This is typically from ‘cradle-to-grave’, but in the case of materials, which are subsequently formed into a customer’s product, this is more likely to be ‘cradle-to-gate’. By revealing the environmental impacts, it enables a producer and/or their customers, to compare with other products and to identify focus areas for reduced impact.

In order to undertake a meaningful LCA, a product needs to have a constant, fully defined process, with measurable inputs and outputs. Performing an analysis on a product or process that is still subject to change can be futile, as each new change will require repeating what can be an expensive and lengthy LCA process.

It should not be assumed that biomaterials are inherently more sustainable. There is currently a lack of public LCAs in the biomaterial space. This speaks to the immaturity of biomaterial development; for most innovators it is still too early to perform such an analysis. Several things need to be in place for an LCA process to make sense:

  • Has the innovator locked down the entire production process in a scalable system?
  • Does the innovator have a way to accurately measure all inputs and outputs?
  • Does the innovator have the funds and personnel to undertake an LCA?

In order to undertake a meaningful LCA, a product needs a constant, fully defined process, with measurable inputs and outputs.

Example timeline for scaling and LCA in leather alternative

Clarino™ - microfiber synthetic leather
1964
First pilot plant developed for synthetic fibers made by Kuraray
Capacity: 50,000 m2 / month
1966
Launch of branded synthetic leather called Clarino™Scaled mass production plant opened in Okayama
Capacity: 50,000 m2 / month
1999
Okayama plant production reaches higher capacity

Capacity: 16 million m2 / year

2002
Kuraray begin using LCAs on models of their production plants to optimize processing and reduce environmental impact
2009
Launch of a more sustainable material called Tirrenina™ using the Clarino system. Kuraray commissioned a new production plant called CATS (Clarino Advanced Technology System) for Tirrenina™.
2018
Tirrenina™ Nubuck certified by OEKO-TEX Standard 100.
2020
Kuarary achieve 2020 targets for Tirrenina™.
Compared to conventional leather, CO2 emissions reduced by 35%, water by 70% and solvent usage by 90%.

In the above example, it took decades for Clarino™ to scale from pilot to commercial production, and another few decades to optimize their process for sustainability. With commercial production scaled, the company had data available to analyze their process using LCAs and the funding to model changes for environmental benefits.

Who benefits from an LCA?

Product Dev.

Product development teams may be issued guidance around preferred certifications or standards. In the absence of these, LCAs provide impact insights allowing for comparison across materials.

Supply Chain

LCAs can provide data allowing for evaluation of individual suppliers.

Sales & Marketing

For these teams understanding product benefits and potential risks is essential to being able to communicate accurately and for competitive edge.

Management

For brands to take a strategic lead LCAs can provide transparency to help avoid risks.

How biomaterial startups are approaching LCAs

We are starting to see LCAs being published by some of the more established biomaterial startups. By ‘established’, we mean the companies in the table below were founded on average 11 years ago; still extremely young by industry standards. Most have published impact data of some kind only after 10 or more years into their innovation journey.

As our table below shows, initial impact data is being presented in various forms. From PDFs or blogs on company websites, to papers published in general or more scientific journals.

Earlier stage innovators may be attempting to track some impact data internally which they may or may not be prepared to share with brand partners.

Spiber fiber extrusion

Reasons why an innovator may want to wait to share impact data:

  • They are still iterating on the process or are changing inputs and outputs
  • They may not be able to easily track or measure data
  • The team is too small / resources are too tight to implement a study
  • They know the data will keep changing from bench to pilot to commercial

Innovators understand the importance of conducting an LCA, and often begin working early on to identify what data to track, but usually will wait to share findings until further on in their development journey. Since initial data may bear no relation to the final scaled process, innovators may be concerned they will be unfairly judged if compared with products that reached commercial scale decades ago and have had the benefit of decades of efficiency improvements.

Key factors to consider when seeking an LCA:

  • How old is the company?
  • How complex is the technology?
  • Are they at pilot or commercial stage?

The younger the company, the more complex the technology, the further they are from pilot or commercial scale, the less likely they are to have an LCA.

For example, in the table below, the most complex technology is Spiber’s Brewed Protein™ fiber. This technology entails designing and genetically engineer a new organism to produce novel proteins, optimize fermentation conditions for that organism, developing downstream processing to extract and purify the protein, formulation of a performance dope, before extrusion into a fiber which may need optimizing by iterating right back to the genetics.

Conversely, the process for Modern Meadow’s Bioleather1 material is relatively simple. It formulates its Bio-Alloy™ with off-the-shelf ingredients (soy protein powder, pigments, biobased polymers such as PU) and employs existing infrastructure, such as roll–to-roll textile coating technology, with their partner Limonta.

It's important to note that the systems boundaries used for an LCA will have a significant impact on the final result. As yet there is no database to derive impact data for new materials and processes.

Table of published biomaterial LCA data

Case Study: MycoWorks LCA

Of the initial LCAs published, some are problematic in multiple dimensions - we would caution brands to do further fact-checking. One recent example is the LCA published last year by MycoWorks.
Here’s a few of the issues with this particular LCA:
  • Includes qualitative not quantitative assessments
  • Questionable validity of data sources
  • Questionable validity of peer review
  • Subjective and unmeasurable claims
  • Out of date, inaccurate, or factually incorrect data re competitors
Key takeaway:
Beware LCAs being ‘weaponized’ to attack competitors rather than provide accurate, quality third party verified, science-based data.

A note on LCAs & Leather

Even though some new biomaterials may be positioned as leather alternatives, drawing comparison to leather is problematic, not least because leather itself is a category, not a single material.

“Currently, there is no single methodology and no agreement has been reached internationally on Leather PCF calculation methods. The inherent complexity and lack of exactness of carbon footprint analyses contrasts with the need to communicate the results in a simple, clear and unambiguous way”

Federico Brugnoli, Spin 360, 2017